The Dawn Princess

Toward the end of our first week aboard the Dawn Princess, thankfully, we sailed out of the heavy swells of the Tasman Sea. I was not affected by the ship’s motion and Gail handled it very well except for one period where she was feeling slightly unwell. We have heard of some travellers who were affected much more than we. During these few days the ship’s swimming pools were not open, in fact they became mini tsunamis with waves sloshing to several feet above the pool deck.

By contrast, sailing through the inside passage of the Great Barrier Reef just north of the Tropic of Capricorn, protected by the outer reef, seas were nearly calm and temperatures rose daily. I suspect seas here were anything but calm one week earlier as this was the path taken by Tropical Cyclone Ita. I shudder to think of the effect 200 kph winds would have on a ship such as ours. Temperatures approaching the tropics rose to the 27°C mark with warmer temperatures expected while we are north of the Tropic of Capricorn. As I am writing this the Dawn Princess is sailing a southerly course from Indonesia to Perth. More than three days at sea during which time we will leave the tropics. The seas are gradually becoming rougher as we sail southward. They are probably worse than in the Tasman sea but fewer passengers seem affected. Hopefully, the weather will cooperate later today and we will be able to view the expected partial solar eclipse.

The Dawn Princess is a Sun Class vessel, Smaller than the 3,000 passenger Grand Class ships sailed by Princess and larger than the 700 passenger R-Ships, the Dawn carries about 1,900. Passenger elevators travel between Deck 4, the infirmary and tender boarding area to deck 14 where the buffet is located. There is, of course, no thirteen. Decks 8 through 11 are almost entirely passenger staterooms and the majority of the staterooms on the outside have small balconies. All balconies are “sheltered,” which means they are essentially rectangular openings in the ship’s hull extending from about knee level to a few centimetres below the deck above. A railing guards the opening up to chest level. On most newer cruise ships balconies are much more open and exposed for almost the entire length of the vessel.

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  • Ship Class: Sun
  • Launched: 1997
  • Refurbished: June 2009
  • GRT: 77,499 (8,293 DWT)
  • Length:  266 m (873 ft)
  • Draft: 8.3 m (27 ft)
  • Speed: 21 knots (39 km/h; 24 mph) (maximum)
  • Passengers: 1,998
  • Crew: 900
  • Installed power: 46,080 kW (combined)
  • Propulsion: Diesel-electric; two shafts

The Dawn has a number of food service areas. Two main dining rooms occupy substantial portions of decks 5 and 6 immediately aft of the central atrium. A large buffet on deck 14, with serving areas port and starboard, occupies an area from the forward lifts to the forward limits of the deck. Only a small outdoor viewing are is further forward on deck 14. The aft end of deck 14 is occupied by yet another outdoor bar with the spa and gym below on deck 12. There is no interior passageway between the buffet and areas further aft, and the intervening space contains a bar, outdoor grill, two pools, hot tubs, and numerous deck recliners that service sun bathers and movie watchers. The large, daylight-viewable movie screen is referred to as Movies Under the Stars. This mid ship recreational area merges decks 12 and 14. The extreme aft portions of decks 12 and 14 provide viewing areas and access to the small Spa Pool on deck 12.

Passenger accommodation decks 10 and 11 have private, more-or-less, forward observation balconies. Any passenger who is aware of them can use them but they can be accessed only from stateroom areas on the respective decks and can barely be seen from more easily accessed areas below or above. The crew pool and outdoor recreation area on deck 8 forward and can be seen from the higher balconies..

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The Atrium area on the Dawn Princess might be described as two intersecting cylinders, the forward cylinder encompassing decks 5 and 6 with the aft section rising from deck 5 to deck 8. Gently curving stairs link each level and a pair of elevators (lifts) with glass walls overlooking the Atrium shuttle between deck 5 and 8. A Pizzeria surrounds the rearmost Atrium on deck 8. Aft of the Pizzeria is the Casino. The deck 7 Atrium Bar has a white piano at the edge of a circular piazza and a solo entertainer offers evening music. Shops surround both sections of the deck 6 Atrium and merchandising tables are set up outside their shops on a daily basis, at least when at sea. The Venetian dining room entrance is immediately aft of the Atrium on deck 6. The Florentine Dining room is immediately below on deck 5 with Passenger Services, the Tour Office and another bar completing the Atrium tour. Areas forward of the Atrium on decks 5 and 5 contain passenger staterooms.

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Returning to deck 7, the promenade deck is the only place on the Dawn Princess where you can walk completely around the ship’s exterior without stairs. There is a short interior section at the bow that provides an interesting look at the forward mooring deck. Three laps around the deck is one mile and there are a few who regularly do laps in a counterclockwise direction. Attempt to walk the deck in a clockwise direction at your peril. The forward interior section of Deck 7 houses the Wheelhouse Bar and the Princess Theatre, right at the pointy end. There are only crew areas forward of the theatre. Aft of the Atrium on the port side there is Jammers Disco, isolated by nearly soundproof revolving doors, a small library with actual books on real shelves and the Internet Cafe. Fortunately the chairs in the Internet Cafe are quite comfortable, a good thing sometimes when waiting for a page to display. On the starboard side of the ship aft of the Atrium is a small art gallery, the Magnum Bar and the Photo Shop. Here you can find every photo take by ship’s photographers posted on display boards, lots of them, and you can purchase cameras and supplies here too. The aftermost end of deck 7 is occupied by the Vista Lounge, the largest theatre area on the ship. It provides cabaret style seating and is used by various performers and for an array of activities.

Completing the ship’s tour, there is a medical centre and infirmary on deck 4, not a place you really want to visit. The only other time this deck is used by passengers would be when embarking or disembarking the ship’s tenders. The remainder of deck 4 is in accessible for passengers as are lower decks. The ship’s bridge is on deck 12 and the bridge wings are not fully enclosed but are covered by canvas. If you wish to explore further there are a number of photos in the online gallery, HERE!

Kimberley Coast and Southern Skies

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After leaving Broome we began to retrace our course back toward Darwin. The area is called the Kimberley Coast and the coastline is not well surveyed. Small fishing vessels have plied the waters for centuries but only recently and only in a very few locations have cruise ships been allowed access. Our destination was Prince Frederick Harbour, one of the few costal areas with an adequate marine survey. Our pilot was Captain Craig Brent-White, a veteran sailing these waters who actually operated one of the last pearl luggers on this coast. Early in the day we attended a lecture by the honourable captain hoping for some insight on what we might see during our sunset visit to Prince Frederick Harbour. Most of his presentation was a detailed, rather DETAILED, history of the region. While interesting, it could have been diluted considerably for our appetite. The visit itself was, however, most worthwhile and there is a photo album specific to this visit. The sun set at 5:30 PM and it was brilliant. A perfect prelude to our evening meal.

Prince Frederick Harbour Sunset

As the ship entered the harbour her speed slowed gradually from 15 knots at the entrance to 12, then 10 as she sailed between the endless small islands and rock outcroppings. The layers of red and grey rock were clearly visible on almost every formation. Dawn Princess came to a full stop only a few hundred metres from westward facing rock escarpments just as the sun’s colour began to change into the reds. The Captain, presumably our pilot, had the ship rotate ever so slowly to port (counterclockwise if you prefer) until from our vantage point we could watch the final two minutes of a beautiful sunset.

Earlier in the day we also attended the second very interesting presentation by Dan Benedict who has been acquainting us with the celestial objects in the southern sky. Today he began to prepare us for some late evening star gazing by describing some of the rarest events that have been seen and that none of us will likely ever experience. Next came the stars that we had some chance of actually seeing in tonight’s sky. Dan seems to understand that the mind can absorb only what one’s backside can endure. 

Just before 9 PM about 100 or more of us joined Dan on the aft section of deck 14 to se what we could see. The sky was nearly cloudless with only a very slight low level haze created by our ship’s spray and stack emissions. At precisely 9 PM the Bridge obligingly turned out as many artificial lights near us as seemed safe and the skies came to life. For me fourth magnitude stars became easily visible. Dan pointed out the Southern Cross immediately, and in answer to latecomer’s questions about three more times. I think he managed to get almost everyone to identify Mars, Saturn and Jupiter and as many of the first magnitude stars as he could. His green laser pointer was reasonably effective when there was a little mist.

You should be able to find photos for Broome and the Kimberley coast on line. Check HERE.

Broome, a pleasant place to visit

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Wednesday, April 23, was our day to visit Broome, Western Australia. It appears to be the place where the Red Centre of Australia meets the Indian Ocean. The red soil was quite evident around the port. the Port of Broome is not cruise ship friendly. Firstly, high tides are essential to provide access to the harbour and there was less than two metres of water beneath the keel as we entered and exited. Our berth was nearly a kilometre from shore at the end of a long pier. No foot traffic was permitted along the pier and only a few busses at a time could be loaded at the berth. Tours required some time to get on their way. Ours was 30 minutes late departing. No complaints, we really had nothing else requiring urgent attention.

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Once we were on our way we saw considerable green atop the red soil. Homes along our route seemed quite modern and well treed and the vegetation was quite consistent to our first stop, the Malcolm Douglas Crocodile Park. The park also had a number of birds, lizards and dingos on the property but mostly, it was a retirement home for crocodiles that acquired bad reputations in their original habitats. It was a bit hurried but we got back on schedule after initial delays and we saw all we needed during the brief visit. We returned to our rather cramped 25 passenger bus to continue our tour.

Our driver provided a bit of narration as he retraced much of our earlier journey before taking a new path to Cable Beach, so named for the communications cable to Indonesia that came ashore here. As we stepped down from the bus we first saw a grassy park overlooking the bay. The beach itself became more and more visible as we walked across the lawn. A rocky area gave way to DSCF3399 ide crescent of sand stretching around the bay to Gantheaume Point which we would later visit. The tide was lower than when we arrived at 4 AM and the water’s edge was some distance from the sun bathers.

Our third stop was along the main street in Broome where we visited a display documenting the pearling industry of Broome’s past. Pearl luggers by the hundreds frequented Broome throughout the 19th century and a considerable portion of the 20th century. When I first heard of pearling on Australia’s west coast my thoughts turned immediately to pearls of the spherical variety. However, it was the oyster’s pearly shell upon which this industry was built. It was both fascinating and saddening to hear and see how small statured Chinese were stuffed into diving suits made for much larger Europeans. It was a rugged environment that frequently took lives.

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Our fourth stop was a quick trip to Gantheaume Point which was just visible from Cable Beach. By this time the sun was hot and there was no shade. It was only a five minute walk to the rocky point. We passed a lovely residence, the light keepers I presume, and a light house tower. I would not like to be responsible to change the bulb atop the tower. There were two eagle’s nests on different levels, one of which was definitely occupied. A young eaglet could be seen sitting on the rail. It seems probably that a climb near the nest would attract momma eagle. The red soil gave way to sedimentary rock etched by wind and water. When the tide is out it is said to be possible to see dinosaur footprints in the rock, all we could see were likenesses in a concrete pad. We retreated, gratefully, to the coolness of our coach.

Our driver was in communication with coordinators at the berth and took us on a couple of short side tours while we awaited our turn to transfer back to the ship. The first was a modern housing subdivision. Most homes appeared to have metal roofs and, we were told, metal frames. We saw one with a brick exterior. Although major storms have been rare in Broome all construction must be able to withstand force 3 cyclones. From the subdivision we approached the port and detoured to a public boat launching site to wait the last few moments before our turn to get onto the pier.

Once back at the port it still took another ten minutes in the blazing sun to mount the steep gangway and get back into the comfort of the air conditioned ship.

Darwin, Northern Territory

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Today is Easter Monday and we are visiting Darwin. The weather today is hot and humid with brilliant sunshine. We have a simple tour planned today to get some appreciation of this northern city. It is very green with large trees, colourful flowers and various types of grass. It is the northernmost stop we will make. Some of the place names here reflect the early Dutch influence. 

Darwin is a city with a long history except in its physical appearance. It was bombed heavily during 1942 and utterly destroyed by an enormous tropical cyclone that hit the city twice, both coming ashore and returning. It is believed that there are only about a dozen buildings that pre-date Cyclone Tracy. All buildings are now constructed to a standard dictated by the forces in a class 5 storm. There is a lot of solar power generated here and it is the law that all homes must use solar power to generate hot water.

Ted and Dave were our hosts on the city drive. Ted was from one of the local indigenous peoples and Dave was from Whitehorse, Yukon Territory. In addition to our human hosts we were greeted by an abundance of dragon flies, quite large dragon flies. None would be still for a photo sitting, sorry. We did see one medium sized python relaxing in a tree. Again, it was out of site before I could get the camera to the ready.

 

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With the temperatures in the 30°C range now the pools have become well used. The main pools are fully exposed to the tropical sun so we tend to use a third which offers two benefits. It is covered but still outside, and it is adult only, not that there are very many children on board. For Gail there is a third advantage. It is quite near the ice cream shop.

Next stop, Broome!