Stories out of school

Our stateroom is referred to in the booking information as a “Partially Obstructed Balcony” which means that some part of a survival craft or its associated mechanism is the first thing you see off the balcony. On most ships and particularly on long ocean voyages there is little to see from balconies anyway. For 18 days we have watched our obstructed view and survival craft have twice been lowered into the sea to function as port tenders while at anchor and once for crew exercises while at a berth. For all of those days we have been somewhat mystified by an apparatus, sitting above the boat davits, that showed signs of extreme rust in a geared track and a bucket, partially full of oil, mcgyvered to hang below a motor. Attached to the outboard extremity of this apparatus  is something that appears to be a folding gangway. Two questions: what was it for and in its condition, would it even work?

Friday morning in Auckland we were awakened by the noise of motors, grinding gears and grating sounds. The pattern repeated numerous times. We watched from the balcony as the mechanism moved outward, ground to a stop, retreated inward then outward slightly farther than the previous stoppage. Gradually the rust was overcome and the gangway was lowered to the dock where it was positioned to bring fresh supplies into the lower decks of the ship. 

When we later returned to our room it was clear that someone had spread grease liberally on the gears and tracks. Before sailing the gangway and its balky davits were easily returned to their storage position. Here is a photo collage.

Gangway

 

Our stop at Bay of Islands was very pleasant. There was very little wait time for tender service to the Waittangi shore. By the time we arrived most of the tours had begun and we had the choice of a 25 minute walk or free shuttle bus into Pahai. We opted to walk. We purchased water at a shop on the way and enjoyed the beautiful weather. 

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A group of Maoris were performing in a small park near the waterfront at Pahia and several travellers were co-opted into their performance. The town was not overly crowded. Souvenir shops, eateries and realtors lined the streets. More vendors could be found along walkways that threaded between the auto-roadways. That was where we found a pleasant little sandwich shop about lunch time. We returned to Waitangi on the shuttle bus and returned to the ship early in the afternoon. There was time to soak in the hot tub while watching sail craft, para-sailing and tour boats in the bay.

How much does a suntan cost? The sun is available to everyone and there were more than enough loungers on the deck so the answer should be “nothing”. Watching a few passengers tanning technique provides a different answer. There were a number of travellers who seemed to lay out on deck regardless of the availability of sun but as the sun warmed, the outerwear vanished, bodies glistened with sunscreen of something and bar stewards attended. My calculations estimate that over a three week cruise the tan may have cost more than $800, excluding sunscreen. Oh well, I suppose it’s good news for the cruise line.

Sunday and Monday we were at sea en route to Sydney Australia. Sunday was a beautiful day at sea with warm, sunny, dry weather and smooth seas. Monday could hardly have been more opposite as we traveled through the northern Tasman Sea. By the time we came along site the Overseas Passenger Terminal on Tuesday, February 27 the nice weather had returned.

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Tuesday morning was scheduled for inspections by Australian Border Security people. Cunard, in their wisdom, scheduled visits to officials first by urgency to disembark for tours then by deck of residence in ascending order. What could be simpler? Our deck, deck 5, was called to the theatre in preparation for inspection ashore. while enroute to the theatre an announcement was made that there was no longer a need to stage disembarkation via the theatre. By this time we were with others committed to entering the theatre at the lowest of its three levels. Without method of escape we were held captive while Cunard staff explained to guest after guest after guest that no-one would be allowed back into the ship until all passengers had completed inspection, a fact that was in the paper documentation received by all and announced repeatedly over the public address system. Next, other than leaving the ship on deck 1 as originally planned, we were now directed back through the ship and up to deck 3. Once Cunard stopped messing around, Australian Border inspection was a breeze.

Cunard was, however, not yet done with us. Upon returning to the ship with plans to have lunch on board, many of us discovered we could not board at the planned time. We were given boarding sequence numbers then shuttled from place to place within the terminal building for nearly an hour. We were later to discover that Cunard had not planned for the eventuality that some 40 or so passengers felt that for some reason they could ignore Australian officials and simply stay on the ship. So the 400 or 500 of us wishing to re-board the ship had to wait while Cunard rounded up the strays and herded them to inspection.

After lunch we again set off to wander the harbour area. Sydney has a public transit system that includes bus, train and boat. They also have a “Tap and Ride” fare payment system that works quite well. One of our first stops was to pick up an OPAL card and shortly thereafter we were on a ferry heading to Darling Harbour. We found there were many changes since we first visited 10 years ago. There has been a lot of new development and the number of ferry stops reduced. We walked around Darling Harbour from one ferry stop to the next. the northern end of the harbour is currently being redeveloped. Parts of the eastern and western shores were familiar but most was either under development or already redeveloped into condos and businesses.

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This week has 6 days

With our three mid-Pacific stops complete we saw the departure of Captain Aseem A. Hashmi and the arrival of his replacement Captain Inger Klein Thorhauge. Now with a woman in charge we shall most certainly not get lost as she will not be reluctant to stop and ask for directions, or so I have been told. We get to meet her this evening at a reception before dinner. 

Last night we set the clocks back another hour so that the time is correct for New Zealand only the day is not. Tonight, Monday 19 February we cross the International Date Line and magically we awaken on Wednesday 21 February. We will recover our lost day in April when we return to Hawaii. The poor folks that are continuing east to Southampton never get their lost day back. 

Saturday evening after leaving Moorea and Sunday were very pleasant with relatively smooth seas. Today, Monday, we have 31 knot head winds into which we are sailing at 20 knots. The lower decks have been closed and the salty sea spray reaches the upper decks. Those who don’t mind the wind find 24°C temperatures. The pools remain open but the slosh factor is quite high.

While we were berthed in Papeete we watched an interesting marine ballet. The ship at the adjacent berth was essentially a floating dry dock carrying several vessels. The Yacht Express would partially submerge to allow yachts and a small ferry to sail on. Yacht Express would gradually surface allowing the other vessels to settle into cradles, The crew then began the task  of anchoring the vessels to the deck of Yacht Express. We have been trying to decide whether the Yacht Express was a boat-boat or a ferry-ferry. (sorry, I tried not to say that)

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Having lost Tuesday, the weather moderated and Wednesday, what would have been Tuesday, became a nice summer day with quiet seas. There are many sun worshipers out on deck loungers when the weather is fine. The deck activities on the Queen Elizabeth include some games but the silly pool games are notably absent. The sea days to Auckland passed uneventfully. We had three Kiwis on as headline entertainers. The comedian could be funny at times, the operatic tenor was a pleasure to listen to and the third fellow one would have to call unique, whether you liked his work or not. He had a camera above a tray of sand in order to project for us the images he created in the sand. Upon arriving in Auckland these three plus the daily speakers are being replaced. We shall find out who they are in due course.

We arrived in Auckland Friday, February 23, 2018 and were on the berth by 7:30 AM and there was free WiFi although not the most reliable. We left the ship before 9 AM to pick up a few things and encountered a couple of light showers while downtown. A few buildings we remembered from our last visit are simply gone, erased to make way for subway construction. The harbour is essentially the same except for some minor rearrangements. We returned to the ship to deposit purchases then back ashore.

The showers had given way to a bright sunny day. The temperature rose to 22°C officially but it felt warmer in the direct sun. We took a 15 minute ferry ride to the small community of Devonport on the north side of the harbour. It is a much quieter setting than downtown Auckland. We had lunch, found another free WiFi location to send a couple of emails then walked along the beach before returning to the Queen Elizabeth. By the time we returned new passengers were boarding to replace those who ended their voyage at Auckland. 

Here are a couple of photos of Devonport.

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And a couple of Auckland from Devonport.

 Tomorrow, Bay of Islands.

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Due South

Some time has passed since the last post. We have sailed south into the tropics into the Society Islands of French Polynesia and these are the only Pacific Islands we will visit before our stops in New Zealand. This post is quite lengthy and you will likely need to click on the email to see the full post on the website.

Our stop in Honolulu was a welcome change from the previous couple of days. In truth, there was little good to be said for the weather after departing San Francisco. On Sunday, February 11, we are making 21 knots heading almost due south (170 degrees on the compass) in 26°C seas and 26°C air with very light seas. This is much nicer. Each day since Honolulu has been warm and sunny. The wind has intensified a little as we crossed the doldrums. Sailing ships would not find themselves becalmed in the 25 knot east wind we have this Tuesday.

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The dance floor remained almost totally horizontal Saturday evening and we enjoyed dancing until we moved to the theatre to see if the magician actually had any magic. This fellow was very entertaining. The actual illusions would never have fooled Penn and Teller but they were done with great style. He involved the first couple of rows of spectators which is one of the reasons we sit back and mostly out of reach. He kept one woman on edge after taking her ring and repeatedly failing to retrieve it from illusions that seemed to give her hope. It eventually reappeared seemingly in a ring box within the centre of an apple. Clearly, there are people who enjoy being victimized by stage performers.

On Sunday we listened to another new arrival. Gary played his violin, marched around the stage and the first several rows of the theatre. His musical skill is undeniable but his style and choice of material was less to my liking. Never-the-less, good quality. Monday evening’s guest entertainers presented one of the more interesting shows to date. This trio of vocalists, two men, one baritone and one tenor with one woman, began with a series of popular oldies, nice but nothing really special. When they performed a lengthy medley, a cappella, they became really interesting. At times each of the three was carrying a different melody, perfectly pitched, creating a complex blended harmony.

The Queens Court Orchestra gave us a very nice Dixieland set to keep Sunday evening going. As always there were pianists in some venues and other entertainers in various rooms whose only other commonality is the serving of alcoholic beverages. The photos in the Queen Elizabeth photo album may give you some idea of the public rooms around the ship. While I have not captioned many of the photos yet there will often be a sequence of photos one of which showing the name of the room. Interestingly, the casino on this ship is, apparently, equipped with slot machines purchased directly from Noah and delivered straight from the Ark, that is the opinion I have heard and I cannot speak from personal experience. It is certainly not as heavily used as on some other ships.

Saturday afternoon we found the pools. It was not that we really didn’t know their location it was just too unpleasant to bother with them. Besides, they were closed much of the time. It was a bit of fun to watch the ship’s motion create tsunamis. Fortunately, no passengers were lost in the surf. The pools and hot tubs we tried out were lovely and warm. We shall test them again on Sunday…and Monday…. We are seeing air and sea temperatures rising daily as we sail south toward French Polynesia. At our current speed I estimate we’ll reach the equator Tuesday morning. We anticipate some hi-jinx around the mid-ships pool as polliwogs are converted to shellbacks as they cross the equator for the first time. I’ll try to add some pictures  to the photo site when I have good WiFi.

On Tuesday, February 13, 2018 at 0640h the ship crossed the equator, and so did we, again. King Neptune is scheduled to appear at 1400h to pass judgement on willing polliwogs. And so he did. It was a well done crossing show. King Neptune arrived with his entourage, escorted by musicians, and took his throne. Next, the polliwogs paraded and kissed the fish. Group by group polliwogs were judged guilty of such unforgivable crimes as reserving too many seats in the theatre. After the court has passed judgment they are “grunged” with sauces and pasta then plunged into the pool to complete their conversion to shellbacks. To end the show even the Captain and Entertainment Director would find themselves in the pool, The deck crew had the mess cleaned up and the pool re-opened before morning.

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On Sunday while we were in the pool we began chatting to a chap named Harry. As it turned out, he had just come aboard as an enrichment speaker who will talk about our oceans. There are a couple of other guest speakers whose subject matter we will try to ignore; the Royal Family and British Government being slightly less distasteful than the US President and Washington DC. Harry Strong wins our vote for the next few days. We shall see if the other two turn to subjects of more interest to us.

Harry’s second presentation was on the subject of sea turtles and once again both entertaining and informative. His third presentation on Tuesday described the mechanisms of ocean movement from surface waves to tsunamis. He has a very pleasant style and is easy to listen to. He will not present again until we have finished with our French Polynesia stops.

Sunday was the second formal evening, the Hawaii Ball. There were a few, women in particular, who wore colourful Hawaiian-like attire and one couple who went the “whole-nine-yards”. They must have a lot of suitcases. I think there may be one dedicated to his top hats. There are three more formals and, possibly, three more top hats. Dressing for the theme nights is quite voluntary. Dinner dress code is not, whether formal or informal, jackets are required for men and the jacket police is active.

We have a professional dance couple on the ship and their daily dance classes are quite popular, in fact the Queens Room floor is quite full. We have not been participating. To please the crowd they seem to try to teach more difficult figures for which few have adequate background technique. The couple themselves dance very well. They have presented three shows; a viennese waltz on the first formal night; a samba on the second formal night; and a jive on Monday evening which was not a formal. Dan and Alyona partner quite well, however, Dan may actually over dance her a little.

Since Sunday we have been getting decent coverage of the Winter Olympics which we have been watching from time to time and particularly at bed time. It is great to see the cold from our tropical location. We have also been kept up to date on Canadian news headlines, by way of a four page news brief called “The Canadian” delivered every day with our Daily Programme. I have also seen a Britain Today so I suspect there is a similar update for most countries represented on board.

Tuesday evening there was an opportunity to dance on on an empty dance floor. The seems to occur when there is a recorded music set after a sequence dance set. At these times we can really enjoy the big floor. As we began to leave the floor a full tempo viennese waltz began. Not being comfortable with viennese waltz Gail suggests I dance with Cecelia, a lady from Ottawa with whom I have danced a couple of times before. I can add her to the list of partners with whom I have done a five minute VW.  Wednesday evening as the Valentine’s Ball so empty floor space may be at a premium, but we were able to see rumba show dance from Dan and Alyona. Once again, they were spectacular. After their show we were able to enjoy the floor for a while.

 Thursday we are at anchor in Bora Bora. The ship’s tenders have begun taking passengers to the shore to connect with early tours. We have no scheduled tours but decided not to sweat our way to shore in the tenders

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 Friday brings us alongside in Papeete. Once again it is tropical as expected. Before landing I had thought we had previously visited her but once on shore nothing seemed familiar. The harbour here shows much more commercial activity than in Bora Bora.

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We sailed out of Papeete Friday evening at 11 PM and dropped anchor in Moorea at 7 AM Saturday, The two points are about 20 miles apart, line of sight, However, we may have sailed over 150 miles before arriving. 

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Arrived in Honolulu

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We have not seen all the entertainment offered on this sailing but what we have seen has been quite good. With a little effort I might be able to identify them by name but since it is doubtful you would know any of them anyway I won’t make the effort. We saw a brief performance from the on board dance troupe but last night’s performance was cancelled because we were bouncing like a cork. A comedian who has been on since San Francisco did a full show rather than sharing with the dancers and had most of us laughing  uproariously. We also had a guest entertainer who played piano rather well. For his closing number he took about 20 song titles from the audience then sat down and played a medley of all the tunes. There are also staff musicians including a harpist, a string quartet, at least two more pianists, a Caribbean band, the Queens Court orchestra that accompanies guest performers and the Queens Room orchestra that plays dance sets. 

There is a large dance floor on the Queen Elizabeth and we have enjoyed dancing several evenings. More than half of the time the dance floor is open recorded dance music is played, this is when we dance the most. The orchestra that plays exclusively in the Queens Room tends to attract more of an audience and the dance floor becomes uncomfortably crowded. We dance only occasionally with the orchestra. I fear I made myself a little unpopular with the orchestra Wednesday evening. Several members of the orchestra sat behind the stage curtain playing warm up exercises on their instruments while the pre-recorded music was playing for the dancers and it was quite distracting. I kind of went behind the curtain and told them to be quiet. I guess I’ll be on their naughty list.

The entertainment provided by the artist Philip Gray has been quite fascinating. We have been privileged to watch him develop three canvases. I assume it is common practice for artists to cover their canvas initially and develop the image over the base coat. Philip has been using members of his audience to apply paint randomly to these three canvases after which he creates an image as if by magic. Here are some side-by-side photos showing his work.

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Painting 2

 It was amazing to watch Philip turn random splotches of paint into spectacular scenes. The images here cannot display the beauty of his work. However, you won’t be seeing any of it coming home with us either. If you need to ask the price you can’t afford it.

 

The last two days before making port in Honolulu were very rough. We didn’t even try to get on the dance floor, by Friday evening Gail was not feeling well and the seas were even starting to bother me. Overnight the sky cleared and we have a beautifully sunny day here in Honolulu.

We got off the ship as early as we could and walked the 10 minutes to a nearby Wal Mart where we picked up some supplies. We had planned to do this before leaving, It meant we didn’t have to pack a few things, like coffee. We planned to buy coffee in Australia and brought filters with us. The coffee on the ship is so pathetic we moved the plan forward.

There are quite a few photos on the photo site that I don’t show here. Check the previous post if you need to refresh your memory on how to get to them. This may be the last day with really good internet access before Auckland. I will get a few posts done I’m sure but unless I find good WiFi in French Polynesia I’ll be limited to ship’s Internet which is rather sad. 

So, here you have it.

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