Arrived on the Gold Coast

Saturday March 17 began in Sydney pretty much as it has for the past week, even though it was St Patricks Day. It ended at Burleigh Palms Holiday Apartments in Burleigh Heads, Queensland. The city traffic that slowed our trip to Sydney Airport is gone. Our apartment is on the Gold Coast Highway and we can hear some traffic but from our patio we can see only a few cars queuing for a traffic light. To the rear of our apartment is a walkway that leads in the direction of the beach which is only a block further.

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Our first order of business was to go grocery shopping. Burleigh Heads is a very small town and the shops a mere 10 minute walk.

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The day was hot, 28°C, and quite humid. After the stop at Woolworths, remember that store, well in Australia it is a grocery store. We visited the wine merchant and we returned to the apartment just before dinner time. For the first time in six weeks we got to eat a meal which we had to prepare and wash dishes. It was great!

Sunday was our first full day in Burleigh Heads. The parking lot by the beach was full very early and the beach and town eateries were busy all day, mostly with young adults, teens and children. Our morning was spent exploring the town streets and picking up more supplies. The pool seemed like a good idea on another hot day and it was exactly that. We had the pool to ourselves and spent as much time in the Australian sun as our pale skins could tolerate.

Our first venture to the beach with intent to get wet feet found the tide out, exposing a wide sandy beach. We waded ankle deep at the water’s edge. The surf was breaking about 50 metres from the edge of the wet sand. There were waves sufficient to please some surfers about 100 metres from shore. The surf is almost hypnotizing. After rinsing the sand from feet we continued walking the shoreline. There are clearly many paths to walk that we have yet to investigate in days to come.

Dinner preparation encountered a small speed bump as one of the two burners on the range top failed to work correctly. Once turned on it went immediately to blast furnace mode and no amount of adjustment would cool it. Manual on/off temperature control got the potatoes properly cooked. Our unit does not have an oven so the oversized electric frying pan became our oven. A second “home cooked” dinner was successful.

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OK, now I’m impressed by even the local amateur surfers. We were on the beach Monday around low tide and the waves knocked us around. Tuesday morning we returned to the beach at near high tide and got knocked down by the waves. I’m sure that after one wave sent me to my back I heard it say “make a wish” as it dragged me under. Never-the-less it is fun and I certainly understand the surf’s attraction. The locals called today’s waves “tiny” and I just don’t want to meet one they call “big.”

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Beach Video

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Stories out of school

Our stateroom is referred to in the booking information as a “Partially Obstructed Balcony” which means that some part of a survival craft or its associated mechanism is the first thing you see off the balcony. On most ships and particularly on long ocean voyages there is little to see from balconies anyway. For 18 days we have watched our obstructed view and survival craft have twice been lowered into the sea to function as port tenders while at anchor and once for crew exercises while at a berth. For all of those days we have been somewhat mystified by an apparatus, sitting above the boat davits, that showed signs of extreme rust in a geared track and a bucket, partially full of oil, mcgyvered to hang below a motor. Attached to the outboard extremity of this apparatus  is something that appears to be a folding gangway. Two questions: what was it for and in its condition, would it even work?

Friday morning in Auckland we were awakened by the noise of motors, grinding gears and grating sounds. The pattern repeated numerous times. We watched from the balcony as the mechanism moved outward, ground to a stop, retreated inward then outward slightly farther than the previous stoppage. Gradually the rust was overcome and the gangway was lowered to the dock where it was positioned to bring fresh supplies into the lower decks of the ship. 

When we later returned to our room it was clear that someone had spread grease liberally on the gears and tracks. Before sailing the gangway and its balky davits were easily returned to their storage position. Here is a photo collage.

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Our stop at Bay of Islands was very pleasant. There was very little wait time for tender service to the Waittangi shore. By the time we arrived most of the tours had begun and we had the choice of a 25 minute walk or free shuttle bus into Pahai. We opted to walk. We purchased water at a shop on the way and enjoyed the beautiful weather. 

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A group of Maoris were performing in a small park near the waterfront at Pahia and several travellers were co-opted into their performance. The town was not overly crowded. Souvenir shops, eateries and realtors lined the streets. More vendors could be found along walkways that threaded between the auto-roadways. That was where we found a pleasant little sandwich shop about lunch time. We returned to Waitangi on the shuttle bus and returned to the ship early in the afternoon. There was time to soak in the hot tub while watching sail craft, para-sailing and tour boats in the bay.

How much does a suntan cost? The sun is available to everyone and there were more than enough loungers on the deck so the answer should be “nothing”. Watching a few passengers tanning technique provides a different answer. There were a number of travellers who seemed to lay out on deck regardless of the availability of sun but as the sun warmed, the outerwear vanished, bodies glistened with sunscreen of something and bar stewards attended. My calculations estimate that over a three week cruise the tan may have cost more than $800, excluding sunscreen. Oh well, I suppose it’s good news for the cruise line.

Sunday and Monday we were at sea en route to Sydney Australia. Sunday was a beautiful day at sea with warm, sunny, dry weather and smooth seas. Monday could hardly have been more opposite as we traveled through the northern Tasman Sea. By the time we came along site the Overseas Passenger Terminal on Tuesday, February 27 the nice weather had returned.

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Tuesday morning was scheduled for inspections by Australian Border Security people. Cunard, in their wisdom, scheduled visits to officials first by urgency to disembark for tours then by deck of residence in ascending order. What could be simpler? Our deck, deck 5, was called to the theatre in preparation for inspection ashore. while enroute to the theatre an announcement was made that there was no longer a need to stage disembarkation via the theatre. By this time we were with others committed to entering the theatre at the lowest of its three levels. Without method of escape we were held captive while Cunard staff explained to guest after guest after guest that no-one would be allowed back into the ship until all passengers had completed inspection, a fact that was in the paper documentation received by all and announced repeatedly over the public address system. Next, other than leaving the ship on deck 1 as originally planned, we were now directed back through the ship and up to deck 3. Once Cunard stopped messing around, Australian Border inspection was a breeze.

Cunard was, however, not yet done with us. Upon returning to the ship with plans to have lunch on board, many of us discovered we could not board at the planned time. We were given boarding sequence numbers then shuttled from place to place within the terminal building for nearly an hour. We were later to discover that Cunard had not planned for the eventuality that some 40 or so passengers felt that for some reason they could ignore Australian officials and simply stay on the ship. So the 400 or 500 of us wishing to re-board the ship had to wait while Cunard rounded up the strays and herded them to inspection.

After lunch we again set off to wander the harbour area. Sydney has a public transit system that includes bus, train and boat. They also have a “Tap and Ride” fare payment system that works quite well. One of our first stops was to pick up an OPAL card and shortly thereafter we were on a ferry heading to Darling Harbour. We found there were many changes since we first visited 10 years ago. There has been a lot of new development and the number of ferry stops reduced. We walked around Darling Harbour from one ferry stop to the next. the northern end of the harbour is currently being redeveloped. Parts of the eastern and western shores were familiar but most was either under development or already redeveloped into condos and businesses.

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The voyage home

There is a naturalist on board for this trip who has spent several hours educating us about animals in Hawaii and volcanos. Her session on whales was timed to coincide with our visit to Maui with its many whale watching tours. The island of Hawaii (the big island) is actually the most massive volcano on our planet because, like ice bergs, the biggest part is below the water, nearly 20,000 feet below the surface. I suppose I really did know this but having it pointed out again reinforced the idea that as we sail across the Pacific Ocean there may be some future island emerge anywhere in this ocean. Don’t worry, it’ll take a few million years. However, it piques my curiosity about the things happening on the ocean floor about which we know very little and sail obliviously across its surface.

There is also a woman on board giving talks on astronomical topics. We attended only one presentation as her presentation technique puts me to sleep and there is nothing I can do about it. There were tentative plans for some astronomical observation on deck but there has been so much cloud cover that no observation has been possible. 

There have been a few notable incidents while on board. Some are hearsay and difficult to confirm however, we have spoken directly with several passengers who missed our San Pedro departure because of flight delays. Although they might have been able to board the ship in Ensenada, Princess brought them to Honolulu where they remained until the ship arrived, six days later. What has been more difficult to determine is who paid for the alternate arrangements. That seems to depend upon who booked the flight and what kind of trip interruption insurance was purchased. It is also reasonably certain that the ship departed Nawiliwili, Kauai without a family of four who were able to rejoin in Hilo, Hawaii. There are unconfirmed rumours of more than one passenger leaving the ship early for health reasons. There are always accidents and health conditions that arise and change carefully laid plans. 

Monday morning, January 2, 2017 finds us about 700 nautical miles west of Los Angeles sailing at about 18 knots and on schedule for an 06:15 arrival at San Pedro. We were a little surprised to find US Customs declaration cards in our morning mail since we had been visited by Homeland Security folks who we arrived in Honolulu. In retrospect we were not asked to declare goods during that process so I suppose there is sone logic to doing so now.

There have been some very impressive solo performers on this cruise.  John Bressler is a husky voiced performer who’s piano stylings of 50s, 60s and other memorable melodies have been no less than spectacular. He mixes his music with personal stories and humour. He occasionally castigates himself for talking too much but it fits his act. The illusionist, Ben Seidman, is a master at slight of hand done close up with video cameras and audience participants within inches of his hands. The most impressive elements of his act is the finale where he reveals details of things that happened during the act by opening envelopes and other containers that have, seemingly, been sealed since before the performance began. One of his credits is a performance on Penn and Teller’s “Fool Me” but, presumably, he did not fool them or that would most certainly have been included in the credits.

Our friends Dave Soref and Leialoha Kini perform variously as Tiki Dave and ELUA focusing on Hawaiian music as well as pop favourites. Dave teaches ukulele classes and Leialoha teaches hula. Together they teach lei making. They are billed, deservedly, as the Hawaiian Cultural Ambassadors.

We have met many interesting people at meals, in lounges and, of course, hot tubs. There are several other excellent dancers including one young gentleman from Calgary who has competed internationally at the highest level. 

As we approach Los Angeles the weather remains overcast but the sea is relatively calm. It has been another enjoyable time at sea.

Here are a few final photos. I will push a bunch up to the photo album once at home.

It may be the end of the cruise but definitely not the end of the food.

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And the best performance of the cruise, ukulele masters and hula masters.

 

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