Cape Breton – Steps to Anywhere

We were up early today and on our way by 7:00. We were well on our way to North Sydney when Gail remembered that we had not refuelled. Recalling a previous trip around the Cabot Trail one memory was the limited opportunities to refuel. We left the highway at the first fuel sign sort of expecting it would be close to the exit. Not so! We ended up in North Sydney before finding a gas station. It was a nice drive and we were in no hurry. Fuel tank full, we again set out for the Cabot Trail entry point at South Haven.

The road is a very twisty turny upsi downsi affair. A total of about 200 km (125 miles) with the highest elevation being about 450 metres (1475 feet). While every twist and turn reveals new vistas photos soon begin to seem repetitive so I have tried to restrain myself and offer a sample of about 20 in the Photo Gallery.

During the tour we were without cell service for about 30% of the time, mainly the northern and western sections and XM radio reception was also spotty but GPS was always present. There were emergency telephones located periodically but it was a reminder that reliable mobile telephone service is not guaranteed. Restrooms were another item in short supply.

We ended today’s trip at a quaint hotel in Antigonish, Nova Scotia, that had a restaurant on site. Another opportunity for me to enjoy Atlantic seafood, salmon tonight. It was a great day overall and the weather was nearly perfect.

The highways in this part of Canada are strange to Ontario folk like me. They vary in colour from black to red to green. They also have a strong tendency to pull the steering toward the right. Occasionally, there is a rapid slewing right to left. On the positive side, there are few potholes.

Check out the photos. Tomorrow will be a short drive but it will be our 58th anniversary.

Martin Buber

All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware.

There was no rush to get on the road today, only 300 km to Sydney. It was a cool, bright morning and after a refuelling stop, we were on our way. There is only one route to Cape Breton Island, Highway 104. The Canso Causeway is the only link between the Nova Scotia mainland and Cape Breton Island. The island accounts of nearly 20% of the total area of Nova Scotia and about 15% of its population. It contains an inland sea called Bras d’Or Lake which is open to the ocean but is also fed from fresh water rivers. The Cabot Trail is a major attraction where it is possible to spend days visiting attractions, hiking and eating. We are just going to drive from South Haven to Margaree Harbour which is not the entire 298 km and only a quick look.

I had expected to find more side trips on today’s trip but St Peter was really the only one. We drove along the shore of Bras d’Or Lake which is very pretty and varied but photos don’t show it well. When we arrived in Sydney we stopped to replenish our lunch supplies then continued to our hotel, an hour early. The desk clerk was very pleasant and accommodating so we were checked in early.

When we arrived, we inquired about a place for dinner and were referred to Governors Pub. We took a drive to local the pub and found hoards of tourists from the three cruise ships in port. The Celebrity Eclipse, Norwegian Sky and Emerald Princess were in port which probably unleashed 5,000 or more tourists on Sydney. We did see the ships from our hotel in the south of the city.

We returned to Governors Pub for dinner after the ships had departed. When we arrived at the pub it was nearly deserted. The locals gradually arrived as we ate our meal. Yes, I did get my first lobster dinner in years.

Horace, The Odes of Horace

Caelum non animum mutant qui trans mare currunt.
(They change their sky, not their soul, who rush across the sea.)