Albany area

Our over night trip from Fremantle was to arrive by 11 AM in Albany. Mother nature had other ideas and we arrived an hour or so later than expected because of wind and waves. We certainly noticed the seas during the night but I think we are becoming accustomed to the bumpy ride.

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Here’s an interesting note. We were advised to adjust our watches one hour ahead last night, which we did. When attempting to convince my computer to adopt our current time it turned out that the selection was to be Eastern Indonesian Time. I investigated further and it is also Japan Standard Time or Palau time. There appears to be no area of Australia sharing this time zone. My iPhone seems willing to adopt a time associated with Eucla, Australia which is 15 minutes behind Eastern Indonesian Time. Incidentally, Eastern Indonesian Time is also Irkutsk Standard Time although this region appears to be at least one and a half time zones west of Indonesia. Ah, the trivia one learns.

We waited in the theatre for the ship to be officially cleared for us to go ashore and then we were off to our coach. We were taken to Emu Point where we boarded a small boat for our tour of Oyster Bay and the Kalgan River. It was quite cool and fairly moist, particularly at the front of the boat. Never-the-less it was one of the most enjoyable tours of the cruise and perhaps one of the best ever, thanks to the 24 year old operator, navigator, tour guide, raconteur, cook and Captain, Jack Jones.

For the first part of the tour he manoevered the boat around Oyster Bay as he described the history and geography of the area from Captains Cook and Vancouver up to the present. The bay was used to farm oysters and mussels and a small very green island served as a nesting area for pelicans from a much wider area than the bay and river. Jack punctuated his narration with folksy poetry of his and his fathers and stories about the flock of pelicans that greeted us as we came aboard. The heroine of the pelican stories was Percy. Yes, Percy, a female. He named the bird as a youth before he could tell the difference. Percy would dance on command, doing circles in the water for her waltz. Jack would present her with a small fish for her efforts. The bay and the Kalgan River was populated with many species, the birds being the most visible on this day and Jack seemed to know where they would be. Spotting them was quite easy, getting a picture was more difficult but we got a few. 

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Shortly after Jack took the boat through an area containing ramps and buoys marking a competitive water skiing area he grew up to a small dock and extended the boarding ramp. This was our wine tasting stop. We were escorted up a steep his from the river’s edge to Toyota minibus then driven up more steep hills to the Montgomery’s Hill winery. There were a surprisingly diverse selection of wines for tasting and the five I sampled were all worth a second taste. Unfortunately, I doubt we will see the label at home anytime soon. The minibus returned us down the hill to the boat ramp where we waited a few minutes for the return of Jack and the Kalgan Queen.

Waiting for us on the boat was hot tea or coffee and slices of warm damper, a yeast-less but very tasty bread. As we returned down the river to Oyster Bay Jack continued his patter of humour and history. The light was fading quite quickly as the tour was ending nearly an hour later than planned because of our delay arriving in Albany. We ran at full speed across the bay with the plastic side curtains pulled down to minimize the spray. Percy guarded us all the way back to Emu point occasionally taking a fish from Jack’s hand as she glided beside the boat. 

The coach met our arrival at Emu Point and we returned to the ship via the centre of Albany. The driver did narrate as he drove and I am sure everything he’s described must have been there. Being dark by this time, it was a bit difficult to confirm and impossible to photograph. As we boarded the ship just before 6:30 PM the dock was very quiet. We believed we might have been the last to return but a few did not return for yet another hour.

The Captain took us out of the harbour and soon the ship was rocking and rolling through the Great Australian Bight en route to Adelaide, the only remaining port before we disembark in Melbourne.

Fremantle – Perth

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The smooth sailing out of Indonesia lasted for a day and a bit before things got a bit bouncy for the next day or so. There were some who felt discomfort but we survived very well. On the third day of our run from Indonesia to Fremantle we were fortunate enough to see a partial solar eclipse. This is a phenomenon neither Gail nor I have ever witnessed. I believe there may have been one opportunity at some time in my life but weather was uncooperative. This time we had a great view through the safety glasses provided by Princess. I even managed to get some photographic evidence. 

The final day of April marked our visit to the port of Fremantle and the city of Perth, the capital of West Australia or WA as the Aussies call it. We had great weather, sunny and temperatures in the low 20s C. with no hint of rain. The port at Fremantle is very nice. No long industrial jetties, just a pleasant, spartan terminal building. Our motor coach was awaiting us in the parking lot  and we were soon off on our tour. The coach meandered through the streets of Fremantle to provide a quick look the it was off across the Swan River on our way to Perth. 

The traffic between Fremantle and Perth was quite heavy and not that different from Melbourne or Sydney, a little surprising considering the differences in size.  Our tour guide rattled on continuously throughout the trip, filling our ears, if not our heads, with fact and folklore. We were impressed by the appearance of the homes and streets. All seemed clean and well cared for. The area is remarkably green considering how little precipitation actually falls. Prime real-estate is at least as expensive as at home. 

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We eventually arrived at King’s Park which reminded us in some ways of Stanley Park in Vancouver, particularly, I think, because of its size. We spent our time walking through the park to find the Treetop Walk and the Glass Bridge. There were some great views of the expansiveness of the park, the city of Perth below and the Swan River. Unlike Stanley park which is at sea level, King’s Park is high above the river and city centre. It would take weeks to explore the whole park. Near the parking area were some shops, cafes and on the edge of the escarpment an extensive war memorial overlooking the city.

We boarded our coach again for the return to Fremantle and a brief stop at Cottesloe Beach. There were quite a few people in the water, a few trying their luck surfing although they didn’t get very long rides. There were a couple of the iconic Australian Surf Rescue guards along the beach. The port and the Dawn Princess funnell was just visible from the beach.

The coach returned to the port and after a quick stop for lunch we set out to wander about on the streets of Fremantle. Many of the buildings have some history. The Maritime Museum displays an America’s Cup yacht inside and a submarine.There are thousands of names inscribed on a welcome wall outside the museum. There are the expected assortment of souvenir shops along the streets but the port area contained no conspicuous hotels or resorts. We worked our way back to the ship across the pedestrian bridge that conveniently crosses the railway almost directly to the terminal entrance.

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The Dawn Princess

Toward the end of our first week aboard the Dawn Princess, thankfully, we sailed out of the heavy swells of the Tasman Sea. I was not affected by the ship’s motion and Gail handled it very well except for one period where she was feeling slightly unwell. We have heard of some travellers who were affected much more than we. During these few days the ship’s swimming pools were not open, in fact they became mini tsunamis with waves sloshing to several feet above the pool deck.

By contrast, sailing through the inside passage of the Great Barrier Reef just north of the Tropic of Capricorn, protected by the outer reef, seas were nearly calm and temperatures rose daily. I suspect seas here were anything but calm one week earlier as this was the path taken by Tropical Cyclone Ita. I shudder to think of the effect 200 kph winds would have on a ship such as ours. Temperatures approaching the tropics rose to the 27°C mark with warmer temperatures expected while we are north of the Tropic of Capricorn. As I am writing this the Dawn Princess is sailing a southerly course from Indonesia to Perth. More than three days at sea during which time we will leave the tropics. The seas are gradually becoming rougher as we sail southward. They are probably worse than in the Tasman sea but fewer passengers seem affected. Hopefully, the weather will cooperate later today and we will be able to view the expected partial solar eclipse.

The Dawn Princess is a Sun Class vessel, Smaller than the 3,000 passenger Grand Class ships sailed by Princess and larger than the 700 passenger R-Ships, the Dawn carries about 1,900. Passenger elevators travel between Deck 4, the infirmary and tender boarding area to deck 14 where the buffet is located. There is, of course, no thirteen. Decks 8 through 11 are almost entirely passenger staterooms and the majority of the staterooms on the outside have small balconies. All balconies are “sheltered,” which means they are essentially rectangular openings in the ship’s hull extending from about knee level to a few centimetres below the deck above. A railing guards the opening up to chest level. On most newer cruise ships balconies are much more open and exposed for almost the entire length of the vessel.

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  • Ship Class: Sun
  • Launched: 1997
  • Refurbished: June 2009
  • GRT: 77,499 (8,293 DWT)
  • Length:  266 m (873 ft)
  • Draft: 8.3 m (27 ft)
  • Speed: 21 knots (39 km/h; 24 mph) (maximum)
  • Passengers: 1,998
  • Crew: 900
  • Installed power: 46,080 kW (combined)
  • Propulsion: Diesel-electric; two shafts

The Dawn has a number of food service areas. Two main dining rooms occupy substantial portions of decks 5 and 6 immediately aft of the central atrium. A large buffet on deck 14, with serving areas port and starboard, occupies an area from the forward lifts to the forward limits of the deck. Only a small outdoor viewing are is further forward on deck 14. The aft end of deck 14 is occupied by yet another outdoor bar with the spa and gym below on deck 12. There is no interior passageway between the buffet and areas further aft, and the intervening space contains a bar, outdoor grill, two pools, hot tubs, and numerous deck recliners that service sun bathers and movie watchers. The large, daylight-viewable movie screen is referred to as Movies Under the Stars. This mid ship recreational area merges decks 12 and 14. The extreme aft portions of decks 12 and 14 provide viewing areas and access to the small Spa Pool on deck 12.

Passenger accommodation decks 10 and 11 have private, more-or-less, forward observation balconies. Any passenger who is aware of them can use them but they can be accessed only from stateroom areas on the respective decks and can barely be seen from more easily accessed areas below or above. The crew pool and outdoor recreation area on deck 8 forward and can be seen from the higher balconies..

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The Atrium area on the Dawn Princess might be described as two intersecting cylinders, the forward cylinder encompassing decks 5 and 6 with the aft section rising from deck 5 to deck 8. Gently curving stairs link each level and a pair of elevators (lifts) with glass walls overlooking the Atrium shuttle between deck 5 and 8. A Pizzeria surrounds the rearmost Atrium on deck 8. Aft of the Pizzeria is the Casino. The deck 7 Atrium Bar has a white piano at the edge of a circular piazza and a solo entertainer offers evening music. Shops surround both sections of the deck 6 Atrium and merchandising tables are set up outside their shops on a daily basis, at least when at sea. The Venetian dining room entrance is immediately aft of the Atrium on deck 6. The Florentine Dining room is immediately below on deck 5 with Passenger Services, the Tour Office and another bar completing the Atrium tour. Areas forward of the Atrium on decks 5 and 5 contain passenger staterooms.

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Returning to deck 7, the promenade deck is the only place on the Dawn Princess where you can walk completely around the ship’s exterior without stairs. There is a short interior section at the bow that provides an interesting look at the forward mooring deck. Three laps around the deck is one mile and there are a few who regularly do laps in a counterclockwise direction. Attempt to walk the deck in a clockwise direction at your peril. The forward interior section of Deck 7 houses the Wheelhouse Bar and the Princess Theatre, right at the pointy end. There are only crew areas forward of the theatre. Aft of the Atrium on the port side there is Jammers Disco, isolated by nearly soundproof revolving doors, a small library with actual books on real shelves and the Internet Cafe. Fortunately the chairs in the Internet Cafe are quite comfortable, a good thing sometimes when waiting for a page to display. On the starboard side of the ship aft of the Atrium is a small art gallery, the Magnum Bar and the Photo Shop. Here you can find every photo take by ship’s photographers posted on display boards, lots of them, and you can purchase cameras and supplies here too. The aftermost end of deck 7 is occupied by the Vista Lounge, the largest theatre area on the ship. It provides cabaret style seating and is used by various performers and for an array of activities.

Completing the ship’s tour, there is a medical centre and infirmary on deck 4, not a place you really want to visit. The only other time this deck is used by passengers would be when embarking or disembarking the ship’s tenders. The remainder of deck 4 is in accessible for passengers as are lower decks. The ship’s bridge is on deck 12 and the bridge wings are not fully enclosed but are covered by canvas. If you wish to explore further there are a number of photos in the online gallery, HERE!

Kimberley Coast and Southern Skies

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After leaving Broome we began to retrace our course back toward Darwin. The area is called the Kimberley Coast and the coastline is not well surveyed. Small fishing vessels have plied the waters for centuries but only recently and only in a very few locations have cruise ships been allowed access. Our destination was Prince Frederick Harbour, one of the few costal areas with an adequate marine survey. Our pilot was Captain Craig Brent-White, a veteran sailing these waters who actually operated one of the last pearl luggers on this coast. Early in the day we attended a lecture by the honourable captain hoping for some insight on what we might see during our sunset visit to Prince Frederick Harbour. Most of his presentation was a detailed, rather DETAILED, history of the region. While interesting, it could have been diluted considerably for our appetite. The visit itself was, however, most worthwhile and there is a photo album specific to this visit. The sun set at 5:30 PM and it was brilliant. A perfect prelude to our evening meal.

Prince Frederick Harbour Sunset

As the ship entered the harbour her speed slowed gradually from 15 knots at the entrance to 12, then 10 as she sailed between the endless small islands and rock outcroppings. The layers of red and grey rock were clearly visible on almost every formation. Dawn Princess came to a full stop only a few hundred metres from westward facing rock escarpments just as the sun’s colour began to change into the reds. The Captain, presumably our pilot, had the ship rotate ever so slowly to port (counterclockwise if you prefer) until from our vantage point we could watch the final two minutes of a beautiful sunset.

Earlier in the day we also attended the second very interesting presentation by Dan Benedict who has been acquainting us with the celestial objects in the southern sky. Today he began to prepare us for some late evening star gazing by describing some of the rarest events that have been seen and that none of us will likely ever experience. Next came the stars that we had some chance of actually seeing in tonight’s sky. Dan seems to understand that the mind can absorb only what one’s backside can endure. 

Just before 9 PM about 100 or more of us joined Dan on the aft section of deck 14 to se what we could see. The sky was nearly cloudless with only a very slight low level haze created by our ship’s spray and stack emissions. At precisely 9 PM the Bridge obligingly turned out as many artificial lights near us as seemed safe and the skies came to life. For me fourth magnitude stars became easily visible. Dan pointed out the Southern Cross immediately, and in answer to latecomer’s questions about three more times. I think he managed to get almost everyone to identify Mars, Saturn and Jupiter and as many of the first magnitude stars as he could. His green laser pointer was reasonably effective when there was a little mist.

You should be able to find photos for Broome and the Kimberley coast on line. Check HERE.