Waves, Traffic and Aussie-isms

We have been enjoying a much more relaxing time here on the Gold Coast than during the previous weeks of the trip. We have no plans to get on a surf board but the water is so warm and surf so mesmerizing it is almost impossible to resist. There are many kilometres of beach but only small sections, 100 to 200 metres wide at various locations, are protected by life guards. The hard core surfer dudes pretty much ignore the life guard stations but those of us who just play in the surf and sand observe them completely. The water currents that can be felt only a few metres from shore are quite impressive.

Gail Just got Covered by a Wave,
you can see her head in the middle of the frame.

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What you see just before you go for a ride.

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There is the very obvious wave that rises and curls with the foamy cap. They are fun to just jump into and let them carry you to shore like a pretend surfer. They are often not as violent as other waves that lack the foamy crest. Some of the waves that appear as innocent rollers hit with freight train-like impact. As the ocean recedes after one of these swells it feels like you are about to be dragged out to sea or, in some cases, down the beach parallel to the shoreline. The biggest impact seems to occur when a swell that has gone high on the sand recedes and meets another wave just as it breaks. If you happen to be at the point where they meet and the wave crest is rising you get tossed and twisted like wet clothes in a washing machine then spit out nearer the shore.

Traffic here is, in some ways, more civilized than in Canada. When traffic is heavy enough they stay in their lane when two lanes turn but in lighter traffic conditions, like us, lane markers are often ignored. It is generally safer for pedestrians to cross streets here. Perhaps part of the reason is the $400 fines for not giving way at controlled pedestrian crossings and only slightly less for other marked crossings. Our problem is checking the right direction for approaching traffic. Occasionally during the evening when traffic is lighter, we can hear vehicles that sound and sometimes look like leftovers from a Road Warrior movie. In general, vehicles here tend to be smaller. The few larger vehicles seem to be Land Rover style off road machines with unmistakeable snorkel air intakes.

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The Aussies we have met have been friendly and willing to chat informally whether on the beach, in restaurants or in grocery stores. It takes a while to become accustomed to the language similarities shared with the British but they also have a whole series of Aussie-isms. Here is an abbreviated list from my observation.

Aussie-isms

  • Sunnies : sun glasses
  • Maccas (sometimes Mackers): McDonalds Restaurant
  • Woolies: Woolworths, a grocery store
  • Barbie: BBQ Grill
  • Boggy: poor quality
  • Pozzy: position
  • Dunny: toilet
  • Mozzies: mosquitos
  • Trackies: track pants
  • Sickie: “mental health” day
  • Cockie:  cockatoo

To say the dress code in Burleigh Heads is informal is no exaggeration. Smart casual means shirt and shoes. Beach wear, that’s something else indeed. A swim suit and a surfboard is pretty common. I am not permitted to even photograph most of the swimsuits. I can only say that having seen them in the surf they are much stronger than they appear.

On Sunday’s walk about we discovered quite a large market in the park along the beach. There were vendors selling a variety of goods from bamboo clothing to candy. One of the clothing vendors brought their own portable dressing room for customers to try on merchandise, first time we have seen such a thing. Sunday and Monday were surf days. When we’re on the beach resting there are lots of Aussies willing to engage in conversation and it is quite remarkable how many have a Canadian connection of some kind.

Tuesday we returned to the public transportation system first to head south to Currumbin. The beach was like many others except for this lookout.

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We passed through the community of Palm Beach on the way and we took a look at the wildlife centre but elected not to drop another $100 to look at austalian animals seen many times before. In the afternoon we headed north to Surfers Paradise. We remember one high rise building when we were here 10 years ago, today the skyline is filled with skyscrapers.

Our trip to Surfers was by bus and tram, a vehicle built in Canada by Bombardier Aerospace.

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The tram travels along the highway between opposing traffic lanes. It is not the fastest but it is quite effective. The tram is essentially a street car that is about one block long with very comfortable seating. While walking to the beach we encountered a city workman who reacted to my Toronto Blue Jays t-shirt. As it turned out, he had been in LA when Wayne Gretzky played one of his last games and also saw the Jays play in LA. I’m not sure how long ago that was. When we visited Surfers Paradise 10 years ago there was only one sky scraper today, it looks like the photo below. We counted a dozen buildings more than 30 stories.

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While walking the main street of Surfers Gail’s Canada t-shirt got a reaction from a young woman whose father had spent years in Manitoba. Once again, we ducked a rain shower while riding the bus back to Burleigh Heads. However, our luck missing rain ended this evening. We needed the umbrella on the walk to The Surf Club for dinner and after dinner the umbrella was not quite enough. We didn’t get soaked but it ended our dry streak.

Here is a video clip from various beach visits. It may take some time to download.

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Continuing to explore the Gold Coast

Tuesday afternoon we began expanding our domain with a bus excursion to a nearby shopping centre. The motivation was a search for drip style coffee. We anticipated Gail’s dislike for Australian coffee by bringing filters and holder to make drip coffee but first purchased ground coffee in Honolulu after we discovered a kettle to be standard equipment in the Queen Elizabeth’s stateroom. We replenished our supply of coffee and filters while in Sydney as we also had a kettle in the hotel room. Here we are now in Burleigh Heads and ground coffee is not a standard item on the shelves of local grocery stores. Today we expanded the search to a nearby shopping centre and made our first use of Queensland Public Transportation.

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In Sydney we had something called an OPAL card. It was quite useful and easy to top up as needed with not complicated registration process. In fact, there was a daily maximum charge which we hit several times. In Queensland we have a TRANSLink Go Card. While it is just as easy to use on public vehicles that is where any comparison with the OPAL card ends. Before any attempt to top up the card with funds online a registration process is required where almost everything except one’s bathroom habits must be recorded. Even after that the online update process kept insisting my trusty credit card was invalid. Every other store finds it valid. Fortunately, updates can be done at some 7-Eleven stores and there is one nearby and they happily accepted the credit card.

Tonight we had our first restaurant meal since arriving. The place was called The Carvery and for $12.00 per plate we had a delicious roast beef dinner with potato and vegetables. Typical evening meals in Sydney were in the $50.00 range. 

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On our way back  to the apartment we could see birds flying toward a small grove of Norfolk Pine trees. We were told these were Rainbow Lorikeets and there were thousands of them and they are not a quiet bird. Apparently this grove is their night time nesting place. Interestingly, the beach is lined with Norfolk Pine but only this small grove of 20 to 30 trees seems to attract the birds. They are impossible to photograph because they fly so quickly and seem to vanish once in a tree, it is only the loud screeching that gives them away. 

Stock Photo of a Rainbow Lorikeet

Rainbow lorikeet

Wednesday morning began as the coolest day so far with an overcast sky. When I walked to the beach dark clouds met the horizon and a light mist partially obscured the high-rise buildings to the north. We first noticed the rain about 9 AM. Before long the rain was torrential but dissipated quickly. After a few minutes of calm the wind picked up, rain redeveloped and continued with some intensity until noon. We still managed to find our way to the pool.

Thursday promised more rain but our timing was good. We walked north along a beach path to an elevated lookout called “The Nobbies” by the locals, “South Nobby Headlands” by the gazetteer. We were able to identify a few of the trees along the path courtesy of small signs along the way. We returned to the apartment just as the next rain storm began.

Short Screw Pines with taller Norfolk Pine behind

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Seen from South Nobby Headlands

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Friday, more rain promised. It was fine after breakfast so off to the southern trail. Our plan was to walk the lower trail along the water but it had been closed because of some rock falls so if we wanted to walk we had to walk up the hill. The trails are within Burleigh Head National Park. The lookout was about a one kilometre walk with a rise of about 85 metres. The trail began with a number of stairs then continued as a narrow trail. We chatted with several other walkers and saw a Bush Turkey and a couple of Kookaburras along the path. There was a rumour of a koala sitting but we saw nothing. Having arrived at the Tumgun Lookout there is a great view to the south with Tallebudgera Creek at the bottom of the headland then a stretch of sandy beach extending forever.

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After lunch and another rain storm we visited the ocean again. Playing in the waves is great fun. Here’s the drill. You can be standing knee deep in the water when suddenly a wave whacks you in the back, side or face. You fall down and the wave carries you onto the sandy beach. So you get up, walk out toward the surf and wait for the next wave to knock you down. It is truly amazing where sand can get to. The fresh water showers along the beach help getting rid of some sand. We seem to have developed a routine visiting the waves breaking on the beach once a day. Today, Saturday, they were the biggest so far.

This is what they look like just before they turn you upside down.

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Arrived on the Gold Coast

Saturday March 17 began in Sydney pretty much as it has for the past week, even though it was St Patricks Day. It ended at Burleigh Palms Holiday Apartments in Burleigh Heads, Queensland. The city traffic that slowed our trip to Sydney Airport is gone. Our apartment is on the Gold Coast Highway and we can hear some traffic but from our patio we can see only a few cars queuing for a traffic light. To the rear of our apartment is a walkway that leads in the direction of the beach which is only a block further.

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Our first order of business was to go grocery shopping. Burleigh Heads is a very small town and the shops a mere 10 minute walk.

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The day was hot, 28°C, and quite humid. After the stop at Woolworths, remember that store, well in Australia it is a grocery store. We visited the wine merchant and we returned to the apartment just before dinner time. For the first time in six weeks we got to eat a meal which we had to prepare and wash dishes. It was great!

Sunday was our first full day in Burleigh Heads. The parking lot by the beach was full very early and the beach and town eateries were busy all day, mostly with young adults, teens and children. Our morning was spent exploring the town streets and picking up more supplies. The pool seemed like a good idea on another hot day and it was exactly that. We had the pool to ourselves and spent as much time in the Australian sun as our pale skins could tolerate.

Our first venture to the beach with intent to get wet feet found the tide out, exposing a wide sandy beach. We waded ankle deep at the water’s edge. The surf was breaking about 50 metres from the edge of the wet sand. There were waves sufficient to please some surfers about 100 metres from shore. The surf is almost hypnotizing. After rinsing the sand from feet we continued walking the shoreline. There are clearly many paths to walk that we have yet to investigate in days to come.

Dinner preparation encountered a small speed bump as one of the two burners on the range top failed to work correctly. Once turned on it went immediately to blast furnace mode and no amount of adjustment would cool it. Manual on/off temperature control got the potatoes properly cooked. Our unit does not have an oven so the oversized electric frying pan became our oven. A second “home cooked” dinner was successful.

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OK, now I’m impressed by even the local amateur surfers. We were on the beach Monday around low tide and the waves knocked us around. Tuesday morning we returned to the beach at near high tide and got knocked down by the waves. I’m sure that after one wave sent me to my back I heard it say “make a wish” as it dragged me under. Never-the-less it is fun and I certainly understand the surf’s attraction. The locals called today’s waves “tiny” and I just don’t want to meet one they call “big.”

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Beach Video

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Continuing in Sydney

We were awake early enough this Wednesday morning to make a couple of telephone calls to yesterday at home. We’ve figured out that breakfast time here is dinner time there. After breakfast we went to Bondi Beach for a look and the surf.

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The two metre waves looked pretty intense to us but one local chap categorized them as little waves. It turned out that the chap was actually an immigrant from Victoria, BC with family in Guelph Ontario. Once again we learn how small the world can be. It was easy to get to Bondi by train and bus. It was a very warm, humid Wednesday and we continued by bus from Bondi to Watson’s Bay, a community on a peninsula that forms the southern boundary to the entrance to Sydney Harbour. It is about 18 kilometres east of the Harbour Bridge and Circular Quay.

The peninsula that is Watson’s Bay has high stone cliffs on the eastern side facing the open ocean and sandy beaches on the western shore less than a kilometre away. Much of the residential community has a magnificent view of the harbour and central Sydney. We walked the cliffs for a while then descended to the ferry port on the west side. It was about a one hour ferry ride back to Circular Quay and a spot for a quick lunch. We have walked so much I think we may be a couple of inches shorter than when we began the trip. Having seen so many on the ships with mobility impairments we are just glad to be able to do what we are doing.

Watsons Bay – Cliffs and Beach 

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After another day, Thursday, of walking I decided to check the pedometer on my phone. I don’t normally pay it any attention but I do keep it enabled. I found the average for the current week is 12,832 steps per day, average and over 10,000 a day for the current month. When at home, my typical day is between 5,000 & 10,000. Today was warm and humid, our legs said, ENOUGH! That was after we had walked from the hotel to Wooloomooloo and a high rent area known as The Finger Wharf. To the east of the wharf is the Guardian Island Naval Base.

The Finger Wharf

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 Guardian Island Naval Base

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There is also a marine maintenance facility whose dry dock is currently occupied by the P&O Pacific Dawn. After lunch at a small cafe we grabbed a bus to downtown and a ferry to Milsons Point on the north side of the harbour.

From Milsons Point, the Harbour Bridge with the City as a Background

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We gradually worked our way back to the hotel to rest the feet that have done so well for several weeks. 

Friday, Mar 16, was our last full day in Sydney so we made it less strenuous. We returned to Manly again and visited a couple of the small beaches near the ferry terminal on the west side of the peninsula. The Manly beach famous for its surf is on the eastern side, exposed to the open ocean. There are two ferries servicing Manly. One takes about 30 minutes and costs $7.35 each way, the FastFerry service is quicker but costs $9.00 each way. The less costly service is part of the Sydney Harbour Ferry service so the fare counts toward the $15.50 daily maximum while the fast ferry does not. After lunch at Manly we returned to the hotel to pack for Saturday’s flight to Coolingatta and our accommodation in Burleigh Head.

My writing was just interrupted bu the sound of fireworks. Indeed, from our hotel room window we got a great view of an impressive display somewhere to the north of us and near the harbour, I believe. This was the second time during our stay that we have seen fireworks from the window.

There is a pharmacy nearby our hotel that deserves a real compliment on their service. Gail has been searching, unsuccessfully, for a place to purchase certain diabetic supplies. The other day we visited Blakes Pharmacy and we had success. We had several other items on our list and they had everything. Their prices were fantastic and service even better. Just wanted to say thanks.

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