Tasmania Ashore

Monday, March 5, was our day in Hobart. Although the overcast kept the temperature in the mid teens (Celsius, 60s fahrenheit) the sun broke through occasionally but we decided to take a little rain protection just in case and around noon we went ashore to meet our tour group. During a short ride, where we learned that Hobart was a city of about 250,000 in a state with a population of about half a million, we arrived at the Royal Tasman Botanical Garden. As it is approaching autumn here there were fewer blooms than there might have been in summer, the garden was very nice. The garden contains a global collection of species well organized and labeled. Some species have been there for over 80 years.

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Amaryllis in the wild

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Following the gardens visit we traveled through Hobart and began the ascent of Mount Wellington. The road up the mountain, built early in the 20th century, has been maintained but improved little in a century. The upper half features periodic turnouts to accommodate upbound and downbound vehicles passing safely. When traffic is moderately heavy this system works poorly. The view of Hobart becomes evermore expansive as the coach climbs toward the 1270 metre summit.

 Hobart Panorama from Mount Wellington

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The Port from the Sunnit

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The overnight sail from Hobart to Port Arthur took place between 11:30 PM and 7:00 AM Tuesday, this to cover less than 90 nautical miles. Port Arthur is one of the most famous and infamous British Penal Colonies and our tenders arrived nearly at the front gate of the prison. This location might be said to be a natural prison with sea surrounding it and a very narrow isthmus linking it to the mainland. This isthmus, named Eaglehawk Neck, was policed day and night by vicious dogs chained as a living barrier to those who would try to escape, thus was called the “Dog Line”.

 Prison Site

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 Dog Line Memorial

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Our tour coach transported our group around the Port Arthur region stopping frequently for photo opportunities featuring the unusual geology of the region. Many of the sheer rock walls facing the sea are riddled with caves. Where this rock has been eroded to sea level the beach is formed by flat, natural patio stone-like formations called Tessellated Pavement. Other areas have stretches of white sand beaches, some of which provide opportunities for surfers. 

 Rock Face with Tessellated Pavement below

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 Rock Formations and Sandy Beaches

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We all complain about the cramped seating and narrow isles on airliners but they are nothing compared to the motor coaches we used for the tours. In Hobart we really re-boarded the coach only twice, in Port Arthur there were a dozen stops. This was a very well behaved group. There were no stragglers and everyone returned to the coach by the time requested by our guide. When we returned to the tender port our seats on the bus were quickly taken over by the next tour group and we returned to the ship to enjoy a sunny, warm afternoon.

 

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Continuing southbound

We checked out of the hotel around 11:30 AM into a waiting cab. The traffic was not so heavy at this time of day and the trip was quick. The huge check-in line we saw as the taxi pulled up to the cruise terminal made our hearts drop a little. There was a porter waiting to take our checked bags as they were unloaded. As we turned with the remaining luggage we saw the “Priority Boarding” sign which was our queue. As we entered our stateroom Gail’s watch read 12:15 PM. 

After boarding the Diamond Princess and doing a bit of exploring we went for our typical boarding day hamburger at the Trident Grill. Now here’s some comparisons. We have been on the Queen Elizabeth for three weeks, eaten in the LIDO repeatedly and only once been offered beverage service, this afternoon a waiter was at our table almost as we sat down. Another comparison, along with the beverage service waiter came several others offering wine tasting events and coffee cards for sale, whereas on the QE we never encountered such solicitations. 

It was evident even from our hotel room that the Diamond was much larger than  the Queen Elizabeth. From our third floor window we could see the top of the opera house and, with a little concentration, make out features of ships at the Overseas Passenger Terminal. The only bits that were visible on the QE superstructure were the two white, spheres atop the vessel that house communications stuff. The upper two decks of the Diamond were quite visible over most of the ship’s length. Once on board the size differences were even more apparent. From  the upper decks residential east Sydney could be seen over the Opera House peaks.IMG 9352 On the other side, the view was of the roof of the terminal rather than the upper floor windows of the building.IMG 2495 As the Diamond set sail she had a huge impact on the ferry boats and pleasure craft. The Diamond’s turning circle requires most of the approach to Circular Quay docks. The eleven mile trip to the ocean offers some great views of Sydney. Once clear of the harbour she turned southward, steering a course paralleling Australia’s east coast. Our first contact with Tasmania should occur after about 40 hours and some 600 nautical miles after departing Sydney. As a result, we are traveling at a leisurely 12 knots.

Until this point all of the photos have been taken with my trusty iPhone SE. The next bit, on Sunday March 4, will be costal cruising therefore it is time to bring out the Fuji with it’s 700 mm zoom. I will have to sacrifice the geographical metadata but that’s life. Of course, having not used this camera for quite a while some of the buttons will be mysterious for a short while. Perhaps I’ll take it out for a spin on deck before we arrive in Hourglass Bay.

Sunday morning, March 4,  finds our position just east of the coast of Tasmania. Early this morning the ship shuddered slightly but otherwise passage through the shallow Bass Strait separating Tasmania from Australia .  Between 1:30 PM and 4:30 PM we cruised slowly along the coast of Wineglass and Oyster Bays. The rock formations and white sand beaches provided our first look at the State of Tasmania. Eventually, once back in Sydney with reliable internet and time, there will be more photos of the area, but for now, here are a couple.

Panorama of Wineglass Bay

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Panorama of Oyster Bay

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Monday morning we entered the port of Hobart. After a relatively clear sunrise the weather became rather cool and overcast with some sunny breaks. Our berth is at a commercial site with a warehouse as a temporary cruise terminal.

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Mount Wellington can be seen directly in front of the ship beyond the city.

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Later today we will take a tour in Hobart then another tomorrow in Port Arthur.

 

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Between A Queen and a Diamond

Wednesday morning was our time to check out of our stateroom of the Queen Elizabeth and check in to our Holiday Inn hotel room for two days before checking in to our stateroom on the Diamond Princess. We have started to explore Sydney again.

We are beginning to figure out the subway system. Our hotel is four stops and one train change away. Our train change happens at the City Hall station which appears to be one of the busiest. Five of Sydney’s eight subway lines converge here, looping around the central business district. At City Hall it looks like there are six levels of platforms below ground. That said, upon arriving on one train you may be able to see the platform for your next train but need to go up to the top on one escalator then back down on another just to cross the tracks, so to say. The scenery on the subway is not so great.

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Conversely, there are eight ferry lines radiating from Circular Quay that offer rather scenic commuting throughout the harbour and along the Parramatta River. We have not yet tried the bus lines although there appear to be too many to mention. Perhaps we will get to them on our return from Tasmania. All of these services are ticketed through their OPAL system. One very interesting element of this system is that is supports variable time of day rates, daily and weekly maximums. There are other transportation services in the area that allow charging through the OPAL system but are outside the Sydney system maxima.

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During our intermezzo in Sydney we renewed acquaintance with The Rocks, Darling Harbour, Circular Quay, The Queen Victoria building and the mole city surrounding it. While looking for a place to have lunch we saw a sign for a food court. Upon entering we ascended a five level escalator where there was indeed a food court. In fact a whole shopping centre. Even more interesting, as we descended to level three we were again at street level, then again at level two, and one. Sydney is somewhat hilly and it seems that one might avoid climbing hills on the sidewalks by using the escalators inside buildings. I wonder how long it will take to figure this out?

Here are a couple of photos of The Rocks, Manly and the Queen Elizabeth building.

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The stained glass and diorama clocks are among its unique features.

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Stories out of school

Our stateroom is referred to in the booking information as a “Partially Obstructed Balcony” which means that some part of a survival craft or its associated mechanism is the first thing you see off the balcony. On most ships and particularly on long ocean voyages there is little to see from balconies anyway. For 18 days we have watched our obstructed view and survival craft have twice been lowered into the sea to function as port tenders while at anchor and once for crew exercises while at a berth. For all of those days we have been somewhat mystified by an apparatus, sitting above the boat davits, that showed signs of extreme rust in a geared track and a bucket, partially full of oil, mcgyvered to hang below a motor. Attached to the outboard extremity of this apparatus  is something that appears to be a folding gangway. Two questions: what was it for and in its condition, would it even work?

Friday morning in Auckland we were awakened by the noise of motors, grinding gears and grating sounds. The pattern repeated numerous times. We watched from the balcony as the mechanism moved outward, ground to a stop, retreated inward then outward slightly farther than the previous stoppage. Gradually the rust was overcome and the gangway was lowered to the dock where it was positioned to bring fresh supplies into the lower decks of the ship. 

When we later returned to our room it was clear that someone had spread grease liberally on the gears and tracks. Before sailing the gangway and its balky davits were easily returned to their storage position. Here is a photo collage.

Gangway

 

Our stop at Bay of Islands was very pleasant. There was very little wait time for tender service to the Waittangi shore. By the time we arrived most of the tours had begun and we had the choice of a 25 minute walk or free shuttle bus into Pahai. We opted to walk. We purchased water at a shop on the way and enjoyed the beautiful weather. 

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A group of Maoris were performing in a small park near the waterfront at Pahia and several travellers were co-opted into their performance. The town was not overly crowded. Souvenir shops, eateries and realtors lined the streets. More vendors could be found along walkways that threaded between the auto-roadways. That was where we found a pleasant little sandwich shop about lunch time. We returned to Waitangi on the shuttle bus and returned to the ship early in the afternoon. There was time to soak in the hot tub while watching sail craft, para-sailing and tour boats in the bay.

How much does a suntan cost? The sun is available to everyone and there were more than enough loungers on the deck so the answer should be “nothing”. Watching a few passengers tanning technique provides a different answer. There were a number of travellers who seemed to lay out on deck regardless of the availability of sun but as the sun warmed, the outerwear vanished, bodies glistened with sunscreen of something and bar stewards attended. My calculations estimate that over a three week cruise the tan may have cost more than $800, excluding sunscreen. Oh well, I suppose it’s good news for the cruise line.

Sunday and Monday we were at sea en route to Sydney Australia. Sunday was a beautiful day at sea with warm, sunny, dry weather and smooth seas. Monday could hardly have been more opposite as we traveled through the northern Tasman Sea. By the time we came along site the Overseas Passenger Terminal on Tuesday, February 27 the nice weather had returned.

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Tuesday morning was scheduled for inspections by Australian Border Security people. Cunard, in their wisdom, scheduled visits to officials first by urgency to disembark for tours then by deck of residence in ascending order. What could be simpler? Our deck, deck 5, was called to the theatre in preparation for inspection ashore. while enroute to the theatre an announcement was made that there was no longer a need to stage disembarkation via the theatre. By this time we were with others committed to entering the theatre at the lowest of its three levels. Without method of escape we were held captive while Cunard staff explained to guest after guest after guest that no-one would be allowed back into the ship until all passengers had completed inspection, a fact that was in the paper documentation received by all and announced repeatedly over the public address system. Next, other than leaving the ship on deck 1 as originally planned, we were now directed back through the ship and up to deck 3. Once Cunard stopped messing around, Australian Border inspection was a breeze.

Cunard was, however, not yet done with us. Upon returning to the ship with plans to have lunch on board, many of us discovered we could not board at the planned time. We were given boarding sequence numbers then shuttled from place to place within the terminal building for nearly an hour. We were later to discover that Cunard had not planned for the eventuality that some 40 or so passengers felt that for some reason they could ignore Australian officials and simply stay on the ship. So the 400 or 500 of us wishing to re-board the ship had to wait while Cunard rounded up the strays and herded them to inspection.

After lunch we again set off to wander the harbour area. Sydney has a public transit system that includes bus, train and boat. They also have a “Tap and Ride” fare payment system that works quite well. One of our first stops was to pick up an OPAL card and shortly thereafter we were on a ferry heading to Darling Harbour. We found there were many changes since we first visited 10 years ago. There has been a lot of new development and the number of ferry stops reduced. We walked around Darling Harbour from one ferry stop to the next. the northern end of the harbour is currently being redeveloped. Parts of the eastern and western shores were familiar but most was either under development or already redeveloped into condos and businesses.

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